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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.